Manila Diaries: Kutchay Dumplings!

Kutchay dumplings bathed in sunlight

I am enamored of dumplings. I eat these nibblers when I can, in any cooking, in any stuffing, anywhere, made by anyone--pro or not. Our group's first stop for the day was a dumpling store, which serves kutchay dumplings. Dong Bei Dumplings is a small cafeteria-style food spot in Chinatown. The specialty: hand-made homemade kutchay dumplings made fresh every morning.

Wrappers are made from all-purpose flour

The place is small but can accommodate 20-25 people. The cooking area is at the back, separated by a wooden wall where the menu was posted. A floor-to-ceiling glass door serves as the only access to the place. Between the glass wall and the tables stands a long wooden table where trained hands make these treats--serving as an immediate come-on for dumpling lovers like moi.

Dumpling dough

Although I love dumplings, I never really know how to make one, or made no attempts in manufacturing one in my kitchen. The first and last time I saw a how-to-make dumpling vid was a simple movie scene montage from one of Zhang Yimou's early films--the one that first introduced Zhang Ziyi to the industry at the Cannes Festival. (She made mushroom dumplings in the film. Yum.)

Anyway, when we arrived, the two dumpling girls were already kneading the dough in a dizzying rhythm. They roll it on the table, cut it into bits, flatten it with a small wooden spatula, and stuff it with this:

Chopped kutchay with meat and seasonings

And they do everything in lightning speed. In less than fifteen minutes, little dumplings--in equal sizes, perfect clones of each other--dot the large aluminum container that are then stored in large freezers. I asked ate how many they make in a day and she said she had lost count--its probably more than hundreds, and it all sells out by the end of the day.

The main stuffing is of course, ground pork and kutchay (garlic chives), which is famous as a cure for sores and wounds, says Lala. She said they have these greens in the backyard and when one gets any cut, an elder would pick leaves, ground it, and apply it as as salve. It hastens the healing process, Gigi seconded.

In the Philippines, especially in the provinces, its not surprising that what ends up in the plate also ends up as medicines. A quick google of kutchay points its name origin to Ilokano, one of the Filipino languages dominantly used in the North of Luzon. Ilokano cooking is famous for its simplicity and uniqueness--locals masterfully maximize ingredients as food crops are hard to grow in the extreme heat of the North.

Kutchay Dumplings are served in two ways in Dong Bei: steamed and fried. The steamed variety gives attention to the scent and mild taste of kutchay, while the fried ones give way for the pork stuffing.

The verdict: Amazingly perfect. I bought a pack of 30 pieces for P200. A plate costs P180, also for 30 pieces. My sister and I finished the pack in two days, counting the same night I took it home. Up until now, the taste still lingers in my mouth and these dumplings sealed my love for these Asian snacks. - 1/28/2014